Dos Salsas opened on the Square in 1999, which means it predates half the people now waiting in line to get in. It’s been a Georgetown institution long enough that a certain generation of locals only knows it as “the Mexican place,” full stop, as if no other option exists or needs to.

The truth is somewhere in the middle. It’s not the most ambitious Tex-Mex you’ll find in Central Texas, but it understands exactly what it is and executes it reliably — which is a harder thing than it sounds.

The fajitas are the move. Generous portions, properly sizzled, with peppers and onions that still have some texture rather than being cooked into mush. The queso is the standard Georgetown queso — smooth, mild, goes with everything — and the chips arrive hot and unsalted, which is the right call. The salsa they’re named for comes in two versions: a fresh pico-style and a roasted tomato, and the contrast between them is the whole point of the opening basket.

The margaritas are large. This is not a complaint.

Where Dos Salsas doesn’t quite reach is consistency. On a good visit, it’s exactly what Georgetown Tex-Mex should be. On a less good one, the enchilada sauce tastes like it’s been sitting, and the beans arrive as an afterthought. It’s the kind of variance that comes from a high-volume kitchen — understandable, but noticeable.

Service is generally efficient, occasionally slow on weekend nights when the dining room is at capacity, which it usually is.

For a casual family dinner or a first Friday on the Square, it does what it’s supposed to do and has done so for twenty-five years. That’s a track record worth respecting.

Rating: 3/5 — Reliable Square Tex-Mex with a loyal following. Order fajitas; skip Monday nights.

— Rex